Friday, March 6, 2009

Braving the foamy rapids of Cagayan de Oro River.......

~ Text & Photos by Aireen Navarro ~

Go whitewater rafting in Cagayan de Oro to feel that thrill of riding the rapids!!! I did it and it's highly recommended. Brave the rapids -it's quite safe as the operators are well-trained and they are one of the pioneers in navigating rapids in the Philippines. In fact, they're the first in the country! But given Mindanao's reputation (thanks to sensationalist newsies), a lot of people don't think that it's safe to do so.

Marketing efforts to promote this adventure activity only became active later on when local shows started rafting and its popularity in the country was further propelled when President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo went rafting herself in 2002.

I took the opportunity when I went home in Iligan City for 1 week in September 2002. It was the year when my father officially retired and gave a Thanksgiving party, with the whole family there to celebrate it. I hooked up with high school friends and one of them suggested whitewater rafting. So, I and my friend Theresa called the rafting operator to set a schedule and we headed to Cagayan de Oro on September 28th. We joined other 6 guys from Davao who scheduled the adventure activity on the same day.

Since we're all first-timers, we just did the Grades I-IV rapids - the shorter version of the Cagayan de Oro River. We first met up at a McDonald's branch before setting off to our jump-off point which took approx. 45 minutes by road. At the jump-off point, the usual sunblock application, then we're off to a safety briefing.

Safety briefing included the individual provision of safety gears/equipment. Among these gears include flotation devices/lifejackets, rescue ropes, helmets, and first-aid kits. Our cameras and food/drinks were put in a communal dry bag. Once everyone's set, we did a run-through on what we need to go in the event we fall off the raft --- we're supposed to just relax and drift along the rapids, not fight it off and grab/hold on to something (rock or anything) and the raft will just go after us.

It was an exciting 4-5 hour experience. We traversed different types of rapids and our guides/navigators were very good at naming certain rest-stops and rapids and told us a lot of stories to make our 'ride' more fun. We have the 'snake peek' so-called because certain periods of the year, snakes 'sun' themselves on rocky outcrops/walls/overhangings.

We have the 'coward's way' versus the 'kiss the wall' rapids: 2 forks in the river to choose, you either want the more exciting rapids - head left and 'kiss the wall' or if you want an easy ride, head right to 'coward's way,' etc. We of course took the 'kiss the wall' rapids :)

We swam on the river, drifting along the river's strong currents, swam across the river to reach a rock in the middle of it and even attempted to cross very strong rapids as a 'human chain.'

Our last stop was to climb a huge rock located right in the middle of the river. We anchored our 2 rafts on the right side where the rapids slow. Then we climb the rock and everyone's to jump off one by one off the 'Graduation Rock.' It took me a while and a lot of encouragements from the rest of the group, before I finally jumped. That was FUN!!!

To give you ideas on whitewater rapids - it's rated on a I-VI scale. These grades indicate the level or degree of difficulty based on a 'normal' level of water. It's a bit subjective though as no two rapids are the same and same goes for rivers and the people who go rafting on it. General descriptions below:

(1) Class I - easiest based on a fast-moving water wth nonexistent or very small waves (it's like floating easily)

(2) Class II - this is based on an easy-moderate fast-moving water with small-medium sized waves with bits of obstacles. Rafters can now start to have fun and get 'splashed'

(3) Class III - now the rapids become exciting, alternating moderate-exciting rapids and you start to encounter more and more waves that start to get bigger but unpredictable. Rafters now also need to keep a sharp eye out for obstacles which can be really tricky and can capsize a raft

(4) Class IV - now it's EXCITING with longer rapids with lots of boulders/obstacles that now require strategy and precise maneuvers. Rafters/guides now need to scout from shore first before rafting (mandatory)

(5) Class V - we come to the difficult portion characterized with uninterrupted violent and massive rapids that now require complex maneuvers. The mandatory on-shore scouting becomes very difficult as well

(6) Class VI - this level is unrunnable as generally considered and what rafters call 'the navigation limit' which is very hazardous

Exploring Cagayan de Oro River's treacherous curves and turns amid spectacular scenery and vegetation is definitely awesome --- TRY IT!!!

Boracay - are the rapid changes in the span of 10 years sustainable?

~ Text & Photos by Aireen Navarro ~

Boracay......the Philippines' most famous island paradise, is known for its powdery white sand beaches and pool-like waters. Its tourism history has been a combination of ups and downs but in terms of tourism infrastructure & events development, it continues to slope upwards.

The 1970s marked the slow tourism development of the island when a foreign film crew was said to have accidentally discovered its pristine beauty.....others adamantly maintain that it's thanks to the German traveller (Jens Peters) who received fantastic reviews on his travel book that jumpstarted tourism development..... but it was still the country's best-kept secret back then. The 1980s saw backpackers, mostly Europeans, arriving in 'droves' on the island - adding it as one of their 'must-visit' islands in Southeast Asia. Then, is a span of 10 years during the 1990s - the island has been rapidly transformed into one of the world's best beaches.....this continued on to the point of degrading the island and its surroundings as a result of overcrowding......

I first set foot on this island way back in March 1999. Time flies indeed! It seems like yesterday when college was all about exams and research trips. My 'excuse' for going to Boracay was for a 'Convention Management Class.' The convention location's set on this island, that 10 years ago, was already troubled with 'acculturation' positive and negative issues and 'carrying capacity' problems. One of these problems is the poor sewage management on the island --- given all the tourists coming in, how did the island dispose of its waste? That was a huge issue......Have you heard of the island's sewage problem that for a time, scared a lot of tourists? The 'Secretary of the Philippine Department of Tourism' even went to such great lengths as to go there and swim in its waters -- a highly publicized trip to assuage fears of its dirty waters and an effort to bring back tourists. It all seemed such a long time ago.....

Comparing my photos, the island's 'skyline' and beach area (especially White Beach) have changed -- from palm-fringed wide beach areas, to a beach lined with bars, restos, beachfront cottages all crowding it....before, it used to be an island paradise.....but certain areas of the island have become 'seedy' due to overcrowding and overdevelopment....

Make no mistake though ----- the island has not lost its beauty. Sporting events/competitions are now held here annually. We're talking 'big-money' water/beach sports .....you name a water/beach sporting event, chances are, this sport is popular on the island!!! Among the prominent events are the 'Asian Windsurfing Tour,' 'Boracay International Funboard Cup,' 'Dragon Boat races,' 'Boracay Open Asian Beach Ultimate Tournament,' and the list goes on and on.....Take this, Boracay will even host the 2014 Asian Beach Games!!!

Aside from these big sporting events, the island is also a beach paradise for divers and snorkelers (yours truly included). Other adventure sports are also introduced -- you can now go parasailing, go on banana boat rides, ride the 'flyfish,' go quadbiking, take windsurfing/kiteboard surfing lessons, etc......

Of course, what's a popular island destination without a decent 'night scene'??? Boracay has become THE destination for parties, a place to see and be seen.....where concerts and product launches are held..... and infrstructure development continues on.....more resorts are scheduled to open in the next months and 'villas' are being sold as well....Hmmmm....I wonder if the island's sewage management improved as well?

Of the changes this island has undergone - it was a great move to stop all boats/bancas arrive/depart from White Beach. Have you heard of the 3 boat stations? Hey, these stations used to mark where a boat arrives/departs - dropping/picking up passengers. Now, Boat Stations 1, 2 & 3 are indicators of your resort's location.

If you want budget type accommodations --- Boat Station 3 is the place to be (of course there are a few posh resorts remaining in that area - they're among the first resorts on the island). But Boat Station 3's beach area is quite crowded and small. The quality of its 'sand' is coarser, not as fine as other parts of White Beach.

If you want to be at the 'heart of the party' - head to Boat Station 2 resorts. It can get noisy though and a bit seedy if you're the type who wants to have your privacy and some peace & quiet (your definition of vacation).

If you're this type of traveler, Boat Station 1 is the place for you! That's where most of the island's exclusive & expensive resorts are located.

Another great change on the island - the popularization of the 'paraws' - it replaced the passenger boats on the beaches of Boracay. These 'paraws' are now part of the island's 'landscape' together with 'Willy's Rock.'

Don't just spend all your time on White Beach. Explore the island's surrounding areas - go chill out on Puka Beach....

.....Hang out on Crocodile Island and Crystal Cove......

.....go around the island on a 'paraw'......

.....go snorkeling.....

.....and maybe challenge your creativity and outdo the ubiquitous sandcastles on the beach???

Tsk...Tsk....Tsk....One thing for sure - I will never get tired of going to this island whenever I have a chance!!! ..........even if the rapid changes on the island are not sustainable???.......hmmmm......

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Don't just visit Banaue.....GO to BATAD!!!

~ Text & Photos by Aireen Navarro ~

Don't just visit Banaue....go to Batad!!Bold! Yep, don't be fooled by other travelers telling you that the 'stairways to heaven' are right there in front of you when you step out of your hotel or lodge in the town of Banaue. There are terraces around town of course! Very picturesque as well. But if you're looking for the majestic terraces that rises way above low-lying clouds, better prepare for a loooooooong & arduous trek on the Cordilleras.

I will leave it up to you on how you get yourself from Manila to Banaue. There are buses plying this 10-hour trip daily. You can get there via Baguio or the more direct route via Nueva Vizcaya. If you're into 'road trips,' no one's stopping you to drive from Manila all the way to the north. You'll know when you're almost there when the road becomes narrower and starts to wind around, up & down mountainous terrain. Make no mistake though -- roads are paved!

From Banaue, you can take jeepneys that go to 'junction' -- the jump-off point to the trek to Batad, or head to Bangaan first. It was in April 2000 that I was crazy enough to brave it and go to Banaue without any bus & room reservations......and it was the Holy Week when everyone wants to travel out of Manila!!! I made it though and WHAT AN EXPERIENCE just 'fighting' my way just to get inside the bus!!!

After an overnight bus ride with nonexistent legroom, I made it to Banaue - grabbed some breakfast, just washed my face and brushed my teeth, then it's on to a journey of discovery ---- how to get to the 'stairways to heaven.' There's a bit of discrimination though in terms of jeepney fare -- PHP 50 for me, PHP 15 for the locals. Hey, no sweat! The locals deserve the lower fare :)

I asked fellow passengers where to get off and they're nice enough to point the right direction. A local lady proprietor at a small inn/lodge where I ate lunch after a short stint at Bangaan Rice Terraces (sorry i forgot the name of the inn/lodge but its along the unpaved 'highway' overlooking Bangaan.....) was very nice enough to offer more advise and offered to keep 'excess' clothes/food/drinks since I'll only spend one night in Batad.

Good thing I listened and trusted her!!! That trek was TOUGH!!! The trail actually gradually slopes/winds around mountains with locals selling softdrinks/bottled water along the way. But crazy old me, I followed a local guy and his son who took a 'shortcut.' Have you heard of nonexistent trails that only a few locals are aware of??? That's our route!!! I huffed and puffed my way up that shortcut.....hehehe :) Thank GOD for very friendly and trustworthy local people - it wasn't as 'painful' as my backpack's lighter!!!

My first glimpse of the 'stairways to heaven' was a life-changing experience. Call it drama....but just imagine how OLD the terraces are and I'm one of the few people who are fortunate enough to get there!!! The terraces date back 2,000-6,000 years, carved mostly by hand by the Ifugao - the ancestors of the Batad indigenous people - true Filipino ingenuity. No wonder Filipinos claim it as the '8th Wonder of the World.'

Make no mistake - the terraces are approximately 1,500 meters above sea level, covering approximately 10,360 sq km of mountainside, so don't be surprised if you experience shortness of breath -- the air is thinner up there folks. But when you breathe in - simply wonderful!!!

Rainforests above these terraces (ancient irrigation system) are fed by ancient rainforests above it. So if illegal logging and mining/quarrying continue unabated in the Cordilleras - the majesty of the rice terraces will slowly die out and our children will be robbed of seeing one of our proud Filipino people's legacies. Let's stop being indifferent and treasure this UNESCO World Heritage Site -- the rice terraces that is composed of miles and miles of steps said to encircle the half the globe if one puts the steps from end to end. The terraces that are found in the mountainous provinces of Apayao, Benguet, Ifugao and Mt. Province.

While in Batad, I trekked further to see Tapia Waterfalls - the thundering source of an ancient river that winds in & around mountainous valleys. There are other waterfalls in the area but this one's the most popular. It should be! Where else can you take a dip (can be very cold though) 1,500m above sea level???

Anyway, should you decide to visit Batad - don't miss out on their veggie pizza, Batad coffee and Batad rice for breakfast!!! Savor it while looking at clouds (or fog??) moving around the terraces.

On my way back, it was a tricky trek -- very slippery as it rained the night before. It was drizzling a bit. Since I didn't have a raincoat, I used a large trash bag as raincoat (it's unused of course!!!). The local guide used another trail and great thing that he did!!!

He shared a part of the mountains that only few tourists saw & experienced ----- I saw & passed through several waterfalls on the way back to Bangaan and believe it or not --- walked through terraces planted not with rice but with bell peppers!!!

After a late lunch, I retrieved by 'excess' stuff from the nice lady proprietor and walked from Bangaan to the 'junction' where most jeepneys/tricyles hang out, waiting for 'day trekkers/hikers' who just stay in Banaue and just visit Batad for a few hours. That walk took almost an hour!!! From there, it was back to Manila -- adventure OVER!!!

El Nido, Palawan --- looking back after 10 years

~ Text & photos by Aireen Navarro ~

El Nido - a destination on its own in Palawan. It's been 10 years since my last visit and I've been wanting to go back....

It was while island-hopping with undergrad classmates (BS Tourism senior students) that I fell in love with snorkeling and exploring far-off islands in the Philippines. It was also on this trip that I got very interested in scuba diving - who won't after snorkeling in Palawan??? I got the chance to travel to Palawan and explore a small part of El Nido and its surrounding areas way back in Jan-Feb 1999. Wow!!! Time indeed flies -- it's now 2009!!!

We were a group of 8 students, thesis-mates working on a case study of El Nido as an eco-tourism destination and its sustainability. We focused and based our exploration in the town of El Nido, a small coastal poblacion located on the northwestern tip of Palawan's main island. The exclusive island resorts are just a few minutes' boat ride away. So for students / budget-travelers / backpackers, the El Nido poblacion and its beachfront cottages is the place to be!!!

We of course flew to Puerto Princesa first where we did some research. In and out of Puerto Princesa to/from El Nido was an adventure in itself! The roads from Puerto Princesa to Taytay, Palawan were not paved yet -- so it was a jarring 10-11 hours road travel passing remote towns and forest corridors on a jeepney. Then another 3 hours boat ride from Taytay to El Nido.

Our first glimpse of the islands was just amazing!!! We set off from a remote river in Taytay where we waited for the tides to come in before our boat finally left for El Nido. While waiting, we basked in the pristine beauty of its surrounding mangroves and birdlife!!! Colorful fishes and jellyfishes were clearly visible from our banca!!! A short stop-over at an island for lunch (forgot the name of this remote fishing village), then we're off to seeing lots of islands, rock-islands, limestone cliffs...

So what did we find out while in El Nido? Well, the El Nido Marine Reserve in Miniloc, El Nido, occupies an area of about 96,000 ha & is a popular nature spot boasting diverse ecosystems. We're talking about a mix of pristine rainforests, mangroves, white sand beaches, coral reefs & limestone cliffs. You can just imagine the range of activities one can do here!!! Manta rays/stingrays and sea cows or dugongs known as the world's rarest marine mammal, also abound. Unfortunately we didn't see any of these species but we saw sea turtles and tons of colorful reef fishes!!!



El Nido is now one of the country's premier destinations, blessed with amazing natural scenery, and considered a sanctuary for various forms of wildlife. The area is also home to a few exclusive island resorts, one of which we visited to conduct an ocular inspection & interview to assess how the exclusive resort was able to sustainably develop the area, combining conservation with job-creation. We had lunch at El Nido - Lagen Island Resort. Now, this is a resort to be!!!


The rest of our stay's filled with more adventures --- island-hopping for 2 days, heading out to small & big lagoons.....

.......passing by Pangalusian Island to get to Snake Island (Vigan Island), Simizu Island which is close to Turtle Island (sanctuary for turtles where only researchers are allowed) and other islands (forgot its names....).

We also explored other areas of El Nido, talking to locals on how they harvest the edible nests of the swiftlets usually found in the sharp crevices of El Nido's limestone cliffs. The swiftlets' nests are the main ingredient of the 'nido soup' and fetch a high price, so a lot of the locals brave the high cliffs to harvest nests.


Then, too soon, the adventure ended. We headed back to Puerto Princesa, another jarring ride back to the city, did more research and spent a day snorkeling/island-hopping in Honda Bay before flying back to Manila - submit our case study and finally graduate :)

Someday, I'll go back to El Nido.....